Green River - Canyonlands
Bill Brackin led a group of 8 NSSKers 118 miles down the Green River
through Canyonlands National Park. We paddled and drifted for 11 days, first through Labyrinth Canyon, then through a more open landscape resembling Monument Valley, and then through Stillwater Canyon where we reached the confluence with the Colorado River and the end of our journey.
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| Our NSSKA group plus four of Bill's friends who happened to be paddling the same route and accompanied us on the trip. |
These were driving days from our homes to Moab, where we stayed two nights to acclimate and do last-minute prep.
April 1
April 1
We stretched our legs in Arches National Park, wandered around Moab, and met for dinner before heading to our hotel rooms for a good night's rest.
April 2
We woke early to get to Tex's Outfitters, where we loaded our gear onto their trucks and trailers, and drove to our put-in site at Ruby Ranch. Launching before noon, we paddled about 11 miles to Mile 104.
Campsites on this trip were either up the bank or on a sandy beach. On the first night we were up the bank. A steep and crumbly slope posed a challenge for unloading and loading. It was good practice for what was to come!
April 3
We paddled another 10-plus miles to enter Labyrinth canyon. Sticks and bubbles floated by on a steady but gentle current of about 3 knots. Tiny whirlpools sent these drifters in circles, a momentary diversion from their way down the muddy Green River to the Colorado River, about 90 miles south of where we were.
The Green River, cutting through this red canyon, was terrifically quiet. So quiet you could hear a fish surface or a bee buzzing
amongst the infant buds on the various plants hugging the banks. The trees were very grey and brittle-looking; they appeared dead. But at the tips of
their dry branches were tiny buds of green and yellow.
April 2
We woke early to get to Tex's Outfitters, where we loaded our gear onto their trucks and trailers, and drove to our put-in site at Ruby Ranch. Launching before noon, we paddled about 11 miles to Mile 104.
Campsites on this trip were either up the bank or on a sandy beach. On the first night we were up the bank. A steep and crumbly slope posed a challenge for unloading and loading. It was good practice for what was to come!
We paddled another 10-plus miles to enter Labyrinth canyon. Sticks and bubbles floated by on a steady but gentle current of about 3 knots. Tiny whirlpools sent these drifters in circles, a momentary diversion from their way down the muddy Green River to the Colorado River, about 90 miles south of where we were.
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| Julie Titone and Lyrinda Snyderman paddling through Labyrinth Canyon on the Green River. |
April 4
Today's paddling destination was Mile 79, Keg Spring Canyon. The campsite Bill had in mind for us had just been burned (in fact it was still smoldering!), so we found a large sandbank, which we all agreed would do nicely. (No steep bank!) At this point we were still in BLM land. The canyons here are what's called Wingate sandstone, formed when Utah was situated close to the equator. In other words, a really long time ago!
April 5
Today's destination was Mile 70: Bowknot Bend and a camp Bill said must have been a cowboy camp for its open, grassy spaces. We woke up to sunny conditions, but as the day progressed the wind picked up, and because it blew counter to the current, little standing waves formed. The access to cowboy camp was up a creek with a very muddy bottom. And yes the bank was steep and slippery. If you stood in one place for more than 10 seconds, you sunk—and stuck.
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| Jim and Bill unloading the boats while trying not to sink in the muddy creek. |
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| Linda and Jim cooking up chili, mashed potatoes and salad. |
We paddled 18 miles today! That's a long distance when your attention is continually being drawn to the incredible scenery that surrounds you. All the geologic formations, the occasional eagle or turkey vulture, and the ever-moving
river all demand your gaze. We crossed into Canyonlands National Park today after paddling
five days through BLM land. As we did this the landscape changed. The canyons opened up and instead
of high, red walls on both sides of the river, more of the Chinle formations
became visible. Alluvial deposits fanned out below the Wingate sandstone.
We camped on a sandbank again, so unloading was much easier than at cowboy camp. However, as we were cooking dinner, dark clouds appeared over the cliffs and very suddenly a squall let loose. Chairs went tumbling down the beach and tent stakes were put to the test. When it was over (in less than five minutes), a magnificent double rainbow appeared. Several of us went running for our cameras.
April 7
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| Julie Titone took this picture of our rainbow moment! |
Today's goal was to paddle 5 miles to Hellroaring Canyon and hike to the
rock where, in 1836, Trapper Denis Julien pecked his name, boat, and a bird into
the rock. After that we would paddle another 8 miles through
Mineral Bottom, Tidwell Bottom, Horsethief Bottom, Woodruff Bottom, and make camp in
Saddlehorse Bottom.
April 8
We paddled about 11 miles today, planning to camp at a place
called Turk’s Head, so- named for a rock that resembles a Turkish fez.
But, like a couple other camps that we planned to stay at, this one was
overgrown with the invasive plant, tamarisk. We paddled a hundred yards or so
more and saw some trails on a high bank. Bill got out and climbed up to check
it out, and reported back that there were many places to pitch a tent. The
landing wasn’t too bad so we decided to stay rather than chance paddling
farther and possibly not finding anything before dusk.
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The group unloading to make camp above a bank
under a sandstone cliff. |
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| Pete Theisen pausing to take in the scenery. |
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| Stillwater Canyon |
Today we paddled to Mile 22. We left the open landscape and red cliffs and entered Stillwater canyon, where we hoped to spot cliff dwellings. The canyon walls were darker here and higher. It was very quiet until late afternoon when the wind picked up in a big way. Those of us who had pitched our tents on the sand watched as clouds of sand swirled around and flew into our tents and sleeping bags. Tables and chairs tipped over. Some of us had to empty our tents and relocate them to a grassy ditch that was just wide enough to hold a tent. A gust even lifted Julie's empty We-no-nah canoe off its moorings and sent it crashing into the metal groover (the potty), putting a small gash in the stern. (Jim and Mac would fix it with duct tape.)
In the evening, a gust of wind sounded like a train as it moved through the canyon. When it finally reached our bend in the river, our tents shook wildly for a few seconds and then the gust moved on. It was a noisy night!
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| Our camp on a sand bank in Stillwater Canyon, where a wind and rain storm blew sand in our tents and lifted Julie's canoe off the water. |
We awoke to chilly temperatures but no wind and no rain. However, Bill's friend who had an InReach said the weather forecast was not favorable, so we packed up quickly and headed to Jasper Canyon and Mile 9.5. (We're getting close to the confluence with the Colorado River!)
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| Mac McCormick paddling his single canoe in Stillwater Canyon. |
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| The Dollhouse formation on the Colorado River just above Spanish Bottom. |
Today we paddled 12.5 miles past
Shot and Water Canyons to reach the Confluence with the Colorado River and our final camp at Spanish Bottom. Lots of bends in the
river, and the canyon walls were high and close in. The river was still the color
of mud, but the canyon walls displayed layers of red and brown, with ample
patches of green. The budding cottonwood trees are a happy, bright green
against the rock.
At the confluence of the Green and Colorado rivers, the volume of water increased
significantly but the paddling was easy. We were lucky to not have to fight an
oncoming wind. Pete Theisen and Linda Cooley paddled to the opposite side of the river where
there was a register we had to sign, then they re-joined us to paddle the last bit before
reaching our final take-out. And what a final take-out it was! Steeper than any of the other banks we'd had to deal with.
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| Cool, misty weather in our last camp at Spanish Bottom. |
April 12
Final day on the river and we all felt a bit glum but also eager to get to a shower, clean clothes and a 'real' meal. This wasn't just a trip...it was an adventure!
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| Waiting for the outfitter to pick us up. |
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| Boats all loaded! |
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| Bill Brackin (trip leader) and Karen Bertram on the ride back to Moab. |
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